Oct 2002 Demonstration - by Frank Foley.
Holding up a piece of cherry log approx. 10 in. long by 4 in.dia he explained he was going to turn a lamp similar to a completed one he had brought along. As he had established that some beginners were present, he would use just three tools, 1/8in. Parting tool, 3/8in. Roughing gouge and 3/8in. Spindle gouge (three tools probably in most beginners tool kits) Mounting the cherry between centres, he said that he preferred a height of approx. 9in. for a bedside table lamp and between 10 and 14ins.for a table lamp with a base dia. a bit more than 1/3 height, for stability and proportionality. With the lathe speed at the 900rpm ,(he would prefer 1400rpm, but this was not available here) shaping began using the roughing gouge. He emphasised to get the measurements correct for shaping, or proportions will not be right; and also when designing a shape , consider that a lampshade will be used, as this will usually change the proportionality appearance. The parting tool was used to mark section changes. This is important!
The neck was first roughly shaped with the roughing gouge, then the base, initially using the roughing gouge, but finishing with the spindle gouge. The final finish to the ogee curve of the body was done with the roughing gouge used in a shear scraping mode. With only the narrower neck section to be finished, a shorter tool rest was used to get closer to the work and lathe speed was increased to 2000rpm for neck final shaping with the spindle gouge.
Sanding was next and he started with 180 grade, lathe stopped, and sanding by hand along the grain until any marks were removed, (surely a tribute to the finish got from the tools). Then sanding with 240 and 320 grades with lathe running, and cleaning all dust off between each grit sanding. Cellulose sanding sealer then applied liberally by brush, surplus removed with paper towel and rubbed down with lathe running. A second application of sanding sealer then applied and similarly treated. Bri-wax then applied with a paper towel pad, after lightly rubbing the surface with 0000 steel wool in the grain direction. Surplus polish removed with 0000 steel wool before polishing with a soft cloth held safely to prevent it getting caught in the rotation. If a second coat of polish is applied, rub down surface before application.
Boring for the lead was then carried out on the finished lamp. After describing the standard lamp shell auger, the hollow cup centre and the 4 prong counter boring tool; with lathe speed adjusted to 400rpm, the lamp was bored 1/2 way- through the hollow tail stock- starting at the neck. Auger was withdrawn every 1/2in. or so to discard the bored material. When the 1/2 way stage was reached, lamp reversed and the 4 prong counter boring tool used as the drive, after counter boring a shallow recess for the brass lampholder plate. This completed the turning operation, then fitment of the brass lampholder with its internal cord grip for the 3 core 0.5mmsq.flex was discussed as well as the requirement for a cord grip to be fitted in lamp base and a 3 amp. fuse to be fitted in 3 pin plug
Our thanks to Frank for a most enjoyable and informative demonstration where his knowledge, skill with the basis tools and his love off good woodturning was appreciated by all.
Michael Forde