Paddy’s barrel lamps are well named as they are made up of staves or sections, and turned to the shape of a barrel (rather than bent as in true coopering) and very attractive lamps they are. In order to make the demonstration as complete as possible, he brought along three lamps;
Regarding cutting the sections, Paddy emphasised that extreme accuracy is essential, a good saw with a tilting blade is preferable in his opinion to a tilting table. A suitable method discussed was “with circular saw set to cut 15 degrees off vertical (or 90 degrees) and using a one and one half inch thick timber, reverse i80 degrees for each alternative cut.” The 12 sections can be of contrasting or similar woods, but it is essential to have kiln dried stock, even then the stresses relieved by the cutting process can sometimes result in slight changes in shape. After gluing, the barrel is held in position by appropriately sized jubliee clips ( but rubber bands will do as well) until glue sets For turning the open ended barrel, prepared predrilled and countersunk 20mm .thick M.D.F. circular pads were screwed to each end., and this enabled the section to be mounted between centres and with a roughing gouge turned to a cylinder a bit over 6 inches in dia. From the centre the barrel is tapered to approx. 5 inches at each end and a flat approx.10mm.wide is turned at each end to accept the recessed top and bottom. Outside then sanded and ready for the finish, and Paddy uses two coats of BASECOAT rubbed on, and finally a spray finish.
The bottom cover of mahogoney or iroko approx. 25mm. thick, which was planed flat, was mounted via screw chuck and turned to approx. 200mm.; then . profiled to give a curved edge and recessed to give a snug fit. After sanding and drilling for elec. cable exit, bottom was fitted in position using glue and countersunk screws into original holes used by M.D.F. pad. The bottom is finally covered with green baize.
The top cover of similar wood ,and same size approx. as bottom cover, was mounted on screw chuck (after first accurately drilling screw mounting hole square, since it will be reversed on screw chuck) and then recessed to be a snug fit on barrel. After reversing on screw chuck and checked running true, the top was turned to size with a domed profile and sanded ready for finish. After removal from screw chuck a 10.5mm. hole was drilled through screw hole for the lamp holder fitting. The top cover was then ready for glueing in position. Finally Paddy demonstrated the complete wiring of the finished lamp with the wiring kit he had brought along ; which when used , complies with the E.U. certification requirements for such items. Our sincere thanks to Paddy for a well prepared and skilfully carried out demonstration, in that easy going approach , sprinkled with stories and anecdotes, all of which added up to a very informative and entertaining morning. all of which added up to a very informative and entertaining morning.
Michael Forde